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North Africa: Algeria

Algeria is the world's 10th largest country with the population of 37.9 million. It is also the largest country in Africa and in the Mediterranean. The territory of today's Algeria was the home of many ancient prehistoric cultures, including Aterian and Capsian  cultures. Its area has known many empires and dynasties, including ancient Berber, Romans, Vandals, Byzantines, Arabs, Turkish Ottomans, the French colonial empire and others.

Islam, the religion of almost all of the Algerian people (99%), pervades most aspects of life. It provides the society with its central social and cultural identity and gives most individuals their basic ethical beliefs. During the 7th century, Arab conquerors reached North Africa, and by the beginning of the 8th century the Berbers had been for the most part converted to Islam. Prior to Islam most Berber tribes practiced paganism, some adhered to Judaism and Christianity. 

Traditional dress
Since Algeria is a large country with a lot of history and high population there is no one traditional dress that can simply identify this nation. Instead, every region has its own dress, element of dress or ornamental work used to decorate the dress. The most famous is perhaps the Algerian Kabyle (Berber) traditional dress called "Takesiwt" or "Robe Kabyle" in French. This dress can be worn at home or for outings depending on the fabric, colours and decorations. It is simple, practical and comfortable. If visiting Algeria you can buy them directly from dressmakers in Kabylia region who hand make them using traditional methods.

Ms Samiea Sadek
Ms Sadek has a degree in economics and passionate about fashion and painting. In the spring of 2001 she published her first quarterly magazine for women where she presented her creations. When Ms Sadek started she did not have a penny, and the printer who printed her magazine on credit also helped her to edit it. In first 20 days the magazine sold like the hotcakes - 1000 copies. Her brand "Samira" is well known today in Algeria. The magazine under the same name is available in bookstores nationwide.

Pages from Samira magazine

Ms Negafa Malika
Dressmaking was a family tradition passed from generation to generation therefore becoming a fashion designer was a natural choice for Malika. Although it was more of a necessity than a choice. After becoming a widow at the age of 34 with three children Ms Malika started making traditional Algerian dresses for brides and her small home business was operating through the word of a mouth. Later, Ms Malika decided to expand into the modern trends but without forgetting her Algerian heritage. Today, Ms Malika creates beautiful gowns where she joins East and West. Her creations are chic, elegant and luxurious. By looking at Ms Malika's creations it is hard to imagine that she received no formal training. All what you see is the result of talent, dedication, hard work and a lot of passion.

All courtesy to Negafa Malika

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North Africa: The Kingdom of Morocco

Morocco is the most western of the North African countries. It is characterised by a rugged mountainous interior and large portions of desert. The population here is 32 million. Islam in Morocco was originated in 7th century when the Arabs invaded North Africa. Along with the religion the Umayyad Muslims brought their language and their system of government to Morocco. Many of the Berbers slowly converted to Islam from Berber mythology, Judaism and Christianity. Slowly after the years the Arab rule had receded. Today, about 99% of the population is Muslim while the culture is a blend of Arab, indigenous Berber, African, and European influences.

Traditional dress
Prior to kaftan gaining popularity in Morocco, the original traditional dress was djellaba, a long, loose, hooded garment with full sleeves. Most women, also wear balgha/babouches - soft leather slippers with no heel, often dyed yellow.

Backside with hood visible

Modern day djellaba

Traditional shoes

Kaftan/Caftan

I could not write about Muslim World Fashion and not mention the famous Moroccan Kaftans (referred to as Tackshita or Lebsa in Morocco).
Known as the Moroccan Kaftan or Caftan, it originates from Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq, Syria and Turkey) and Asia (600 B.C). By the 13th century, it spread through eastern Europe more specifically into Turkey where Kaftan become a formal ware of the Ottoman Empire Sultans and Nobles. It was used also as a precious present to honor the court guests such viziers and the official visitors. As the Ottoman Empire expanded its territories across the Mediterranean region so did its culture and crafts. Morocco was among the few who embraced the Kaftan couture. By 1960s the kaftan was finally noticed by fashion icons Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Dior who started to include it in their collections.

Truly is a piece of art mixing embroidery, beads, ribbons, sequins, patterns, metallic gold or silver thread etc.​ It is a popular choice for weddings and parties these days in Morocco and beyond.

So many designers in Morocco and the world had been inspired by this garment and have created entire collections dedicated to it. The small number of kaftans and designers show-cased below represent a very small percentage of what is available out there. Enjoy!


Ms Mirriam Kaissi
Ms Kaissi is a Moroccan living and working in London, UK. She was inspired by the dedication of her sisters-in-law in making their own kaftans on the roof of their house in Tangiers, Morocco. There, watching the peaceful sunset and drinking the mint tea the women were working away earning incomes for their families. Mirriam brought that dedication to London where she had created her own brand of the Moroccan Kaftan.

Courtesy of Mirriam Kaissi

Mr Albert Oiknine

This Casablanca based designer is not a stranger to Paris having presented his latest collection called "Sultans" in November 2013. Mr Oiknine has been making and promoting the kaftan to the world for the past 15 years. He amazingly blends in modern influences with the ancient heritage producing a piece of art with every kaftan he makes. Mr Oiknine has participated in numerous exhibitions and fashion shows around Europe as well as had made a significant contribution into the book by Hind Joudar: Wonders of the Caftan.

Courtesy of Dziriya.net

Zineb Lyoubi Idrissi Haute Couture
This is my other favourite kaftan designer. Ms Zineb Lyoubi Idrissi is based in Casablanca, and operates 2 boutiques while actively participating in the annual kaftan fashion show in Morocco. She remains faithful to the traditional design of the kaftan rather than "modernising" it like many others.

All courtesy to Ms Zineb Idrissi

Mr Ait El Mahdi Lahoucine
This designer is a master of mixing textures and colours. Ait El Mahdi puts freedom in the heart of his creations by combining ethnic and eclectic. As a teacher of fashion Lasalle College Casablanca and Rabat, Lahoucine passes his expertise of years, passionately, to his students including many famous names on the fashion scene of today's Morocco. Nicknamed the "philosopher of couture" for his avant-garde ideas:

Annual Kaftan Show in Morocco
Femmes du Maroc (Women of Morocco) is a monthly Moroccan women's magazine that hosts annual kaftan show. On 25 November 2013, the organisers had unveiled their selection of designated stylists who paid tribute to "Women of legends" in this 17th edition.

In total, there were 16 designers including a young talent, Fouzia Naciri, who competed in creativity to present Moroccan high fashion while being inspired by the extraordinary women who have shaped our history: Nefertiti, Umm Kulthum, Marilyn Monroe, Marie Antoinette, Coco Channel and Frida Kahlo.




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Russia - Bashkorostan / Bashkiriya

The Republic of Bashkorostan, also known as Bashkiriya, is the largest federal subject of Russia with the population of 4.1 million. It shares borders with Tatarstan. Native population is Bashkirs of Turkic ancestry, and the first written references to Bashkir tribes were in compositions of Herodotus, the Greek historian who lived in the 5th century BC. In ancient times, the Bashkirs were nomadic pagans and practiced the ancient religion of Turkic peoples Tengriism. Islam was introduced to the Baskirs by the Volga Bulgars (modern days Tatars) in the 10th century. Today, 30% of the population is Muslim consisting of Bashkirs and Tatars while the rest are Russian and Ukrainian Orthodox. Ufa is the capital of Bashkiriya, it is a very vibrant, multicultural city with history. With the revival of the culture in the recent years people turn to their traditions more and more, especially when it comes to important events in everyone's lives such as wedding, birth of a child, as well as dresses for national festivals. Bashkir dress is becoming increasingly popular especially in the country side, although during festivals in the city you will also see many colourful Bashkir dresses. People opt for traditional weddings and other celebrations.

Bashkorostan on the map of Russia

Traditional dress
There are 7 types of a traditional Bashkir dress (as they are made up of 7 ethnic groups and subgroups). This is explained by the fact that Bashkir were nomadic people and their dress would adopt to the lifestyle of a place where they settled. Generally speaking up until the 20th century women wore dresses, wide trousers, and short sleeveless jackets. For festivities they wore silk or velvet robes. Robes were embroidered with color patterns decorated with patches of coral, carnelian, pearl, coins, and jewelry.Winter clothing often featured fur of local animals. Women wore headscarves in ways that identified their age and marital status.

Contest for best Traditional Dress
In November 2011 Ufa held its first competition of the traditional dress called "Bashkir National Dress through the legacy of centuries". The contest was held to promote the national values ​​of the Bashkirs and to bring the business community together in order to establish production of the national dress. There were 160 representatives from 23 cities participating in 7 categories (wedding dress, stage costume, doll in national costume, modern meets traditional, etc). One of the judges said the following: "- Unfortunately, in our time, we forget about national traditions, - he said. - This is particularly evident in the clothes. We all dressed in European style - which is, of course, beautiful and convenient. However, if we create modern clothes made in the traditional style, with the introduction of national elements, I think we will look even more beautiful and diverse." Participants got really creative and were dressed in national costumes while presenting their exhibits with some even playing folk music using traditional instruments. The contest was a huge success and hopefully we see many more contests to come in the future.

Presentation of awards

One of the contestants in the Doll in the National Costume category

Birth of Islamic Fashion
Muslim Fashion is Bashkorostan is in its very early stages of development. However, there are already talks of organising an Islamic Fashion festival and establishing an Islamic Fashion House. There are already designers specialising in Islamic clothing operate small businesses in Ufa. Ms Rimma Baitimirova is the designer and initiator of the Islamic Fashion House project. She would like to establish mass production of Muslim dresses in Ufa that are fashionable and meet Islamic dress requirements. Ms Baitimirova believes that there is a market for this type of wear locally and internationally. There are many Bashkir women who adhere to the dress code and currently options for fashionable clothing are very limited. Most of the dresses are imported from Turkey and Egypt, but they are not compatible with petite short Bashkir women. Rimma herself has become a Muslim 8 years ago and struggled finding suitable clothes. She ended up, like many, making her own clothes. Today, Rimma designs every day wear as well as modest wedding dresses (nikah) under her own brand MIRRAL. She owns a boutique in Ufa and can be found online.

Designs by Ms Rimma Baitimirova

Ms Rimma Baitimirova as a model

Wedding dress by Ms Rimma Baitimirova

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GAMBARHEHE

Pada postingan kali ini admin ingin review sebuah blog yang dikatakan kere oleh pemiliknya yaitu GAMBARHEHE . 

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Russia - Muslim Fashion

Russia is a multiethnic nation with Islam dating back to the year 922 (originated in Volga Bulgaria state). Later most of the European and Caucasian Turkic peoples also became followers of Islam. It is the second most widely professed religion in the country after Christianity (Russian Orthodox), with 14% followers according to Reuters. Muslims live across Russia outside of Caucasus, Tatarstan and Bashkirostan. This section of the blog is dedicated to very talented and inspiring, in my opinion, designers from outside of these predominantly Muslim areas of Russia.

Russian traditional dress
Prior to the 17th century Russian ladies had long lose modest dresses that included a head covering. Head covering was a custom for all married women and it was a great shame for a married woman to let anyone see her uncovered. However, the Russia's one of the greatest emperors Peter the Great was determined to modernise the country and along with many changes Peter the Great had reformed the fashion for both sexes. Men shaved off their long beards, tried on pants for the first time, while women uncovered their scarf-clad hair and exposed their cleavages to the rest of the world.

Traditional "sarafan" of a peasant woman

"IRADA"
Ms Amina Shabanova is creator and designer of the brand IRADA based in Moscow. As of 2013 IRADA is the largest producer of Islamic wear for women in Russian Federation. "Irada" is an Arabic word that means having a will/wish, making an effort. Ms Shabanova recognises that the success of her business belongs to the Creator alone as in the early days she had very limited finances and connections. Ms Shabanova holds a degree from the Moscow State Pedagogical University; upon graduating she established the business by borrowing money from friends and relatives. "IRADA" started as a family business and continues to be such today. The brand produces conservative every day wear, modest wedding dresses, business dresses, swimming costumes and girls' wear.

Rezeda Suleyman 
Ms Rezeda Suleimanova has created is a promising company designing and manufacturing stylish clothes for Muslim women. The "Rezeda Suleyman" brand adds modern sound to the Islamic traditions of women's clothes. Ms Suleimanova is one of the youngest Muslim designers in Russia today (under 20). She loved dressing up since she was a little girl and used to make clothes for her dolls. Rezeda decided to become a designer after participating in her High School's dress design competition where she presented a dress made of CD's! She holds a qualification in clothing design, owns boutiques in Moscow, Kazan (Tatarstan) and Mahachkala (Dagestan). Her credo is: "Hijab is not just a high-necked garments, it is a moral stand!"

Ms Rimma Allyamova
Ms Rimma Allyamova has a background in finances and is not new in the world of business having previously opened a language school. The idea to create a brand was accidental when she needed to find a long dress to attend an Islamic seminar. She had visited many boutiques in Moscow, but in the end had sewn her own dress for the occasion. Rimma then, created a trial collection consisting of 120 long dresses which was immediately sold out at one of the stores in Moscow. Today, Rimma owns a store in Moscow and Almaty (Kazakhstan) and wholesales to shops around Russia and Kazakhstan. The brand "Rimma Alyyamova" produces seasonal stylish elegant and at the same time very comfortable every day and business wear.

Moscow Halal Expo - International Exhibition in Moscow - June 2013
The Expo hosted its 4th "Islamic Style" festival dedicated to Muslim fashion in Russia. The event takes place every year in Russia's capital city. "The aim of the festival - is to encourage accurate understanding about the hijab in the Russian society" - noted deputy chairman of the Russian Council of Muftis Mr Rushan Hazrat Abyasov. This organisation was behind the event and invited many prominent Russian designers to present their collections at the festival. The show was attended by seven designers and 70 models. The organisers wanted to demonstrate that the Islamic style is not only an indicator of religious affiliation, but is also able to provide beautiful, interesting clothes that can emphasize piety and, at the same time, individuality of a woman. The following designers particiapted in the festival: Amina Shabanova of IRADA, Rezeda Suleimanova of Rezeda Suleyman, Ms Rimma Allyamova, Lilia Valeyeva of PLUM, Nianilla Zabirova representing Fashion House Nianila and Ms Madina Kantulova.

Russia - Chechnya

Chechnya or the Chechen Republic is a federal subject of the Russian Federation located at North Caucasus. The population is around 1.3 million with around 96% Muslims. Islam was gaining popularity slowly, but surely here between 16th and 19th centuries with Chechens converting from Christianity and Paganism. Chechens are strong on traditions and that can be seen in their fashion today. Most of the designs created by fashion labels and fashion houses resemble traditional Chechen dress in one way or another.

Chechnya on the territory of Russia in the Caucasus region

Traditional dress
Chechen female costume consists of three parts: tunic, pants and dress. Tunic is made of cotton or silk, it reaches the ankles, has a stand-up collar and long sleeves. Pants are worn underneath the tunic, they are long strapped to the lower parts of the legs. A dress that resembles a robe or a cloak would be worn over the top of everything.

A beautiful silver belt is an important detail of this costume. This is the most valuable thing in the Chechen national dress. Sometimes in addition to silver, gold would also be added to the belt. The belt was made manually, of course, and considered a family jewel, which was handed down from generation to generation and presented to a bride before the wedding.

Colours played an important role as they presented the character of its wearer; it also depended on marital status of a woman, her age, and wealth. White colour was the favourite for Chechen dresses as it represented chastity and modesty.

Sketch of a typical Chechen dress

Traditional wedding dress with golden belt

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The jewelry on the chest is part of the dress and is also very traditional to the Chechen dress

Laura&Medni
Laura Arzhieva and Medni Arzhieva are two sisters owning their own brand and a luxury boutique store at the centre of Grozny, the capital city of Chechnya. Their ancestor Hashbekar Gapaev was a legendary master of Chechen clothing, hats and shoes. As girls, the sisters sewed clothes for dolls and then for themselves. The hobby turned into profession after Laura and Medni arrived at Slava Zaitsev fashion laboratory at Moscow. Since then they participated in various fashion events and gained popularity in Russia and Chechnya. Their collection "Emperor's Flowers' was inspired by the Eastern myths and beauty of the Caucasian mountains.  The collection was made ​​entirely of luxurious fabrics: French lace, silk, chiffon, velvet and organza. The main colors of the collection: green, blue, pale pink, coral and a classic combination of black and white reminiscent of the proud, the snow-capped peaks of the Caucasus. All images are courtesy to Laura&Medni.

Firdwas Fashion Houses
Firdwas ("Gardens of Paradise" in Arabic) is a brain-child of Chechnya's first lady Ms Medni Kadyrova. The brand offers evening and formal wear, wedding dresses, every day wear and business suits. The fashion house was established in 2009 and its main designers are Ms Zarima Yakhaeva and Mr Zaur Mamedov. In March 2012 Firdwas has presented its collection "Lady Chechnya" in Dubai. Ms Kadyrova hopes to expand into the Middle Eastern market and open local boutiques in the future. Her goal is to "conquer the world of Middle Eastern fashion" by creating clothes that are both beautiful and modern but which also adhere to traditional Islamic dress codes.

Firdaws Spring-Summer 2013 Collection

Firdwas everyday wear

Models waiting backstage

Business lady look

Wedding dresses
Laura&Medni and Firdaws have joined forces to create an exquisite wedding dress collection: