North Africa: The Kingdom of Morocco

Morocco is the most western of the North African countries. It is characterised by a rugged mountainous interior and large portions of desert. The population here is 32 million. Islam in Morocco was originated in 7th century when the Arabs invaded North Africa. Along with the religion the Umayyad Muslims brought their language and their system of government to Morocco. Many of the Berbers slowly converted to Islam from Berber mythology, Judaism and Christianity. Slowly after the years the Arab rule had receded. Today, about 99% of the population is Muslim while the culture is a blend of Arab, indigenous Berber, African, and European influences.

Traditional dress
Prior to kaftan gaining popularity in Morocco, the original traditional dress was djellaba, a long, loose, hooded garment with full sleeves. Most women, also wear balgha/babouches - soft leather slippers with no heel, often dyed yellow.

Backside with hood visible

Modern day djellaba

Traditional shoes

Kaftan/Caftan

I could not write about Muslim World Fashion and not mention the famous Moroccan Kaftans (referred to as Tackshita or Lebsa in Morocco).
Known as the Moroccan Kaftan or Caftan, it originates from Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq, Syria and Turkey) and Asia (600 B.C). By the 13th century, it spread through eastern Europe more specifically into Turkey where Kaftan become a formal ware of the Ottoman Empire Sultans and Nobles. It was used also as a precious present to honor the court guests such viziers and the official visitors. As the Ottoman Empire expanded its territories across the Mediterranean region so did its culture and crafts. Morocco was among the few who embraced the Kaftan couture. By 1960s the kaftan was finally noticed by fashion icons Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Dior who started to include it in their collections.

Truly is a piece of art mixing embroidery, beads, ribbons, sequins, patterns, metallic gold or silver thread etc.​ It is a popular choice for weddings and parties these days in Morocco and beyond.

So many designers in Morocco and the world had been inspired by this garment and have created entire collections dedicated to it. The small number of kaftans and designers show-cased below represent a very small percentage of what is available out there. Enjoy!


Ms Mirriam Kaissi
Ms Kaissi is a Moroccan living and working in London, UK. She was inspired by the dedication of her sisters-in-law in making their own kaftans on the roof of their house in Tangiers, Morocco. There, watching the peaceful sunset and drinking the mint tea the women were working away earning incomes for their families. Mirriam brought that dedication to London where she had created her own brand of the Moroccan Kaftan.

Courtesy of Mirriam Kaissi

Mr Albert Oiknine

This Casablanca based designer is not a stranger to Paris having presented his latest collection called "Sultans" in November 2013. Mr Oiknine has been making and promoting the kaftan to the world for the past 15 years. He amazingly blends in modern influences with the ancient heritage producing a piece of art with every kaftan he makes. Mr Oiknine has participated in numerous exhibitions and fashion shows around Europe as well as had made a significant contribution into the book by Hind Joudar: Wonders of the Caftan.

Courtesy of Dziriya.net

Zineb Lyoubi Idrissi Haute Couture
This is my other favourite kaftan designer. Ms Zineb Lyoubi Idrissi is based in Casablanca, and operates 2 boutiques while actively participating in the annual kaftan fashion show in Morocco. She remains faithful to the traditional design of the kaftan rather than "modernising" it like many others.

All courtesy to Ms Zineb Idrissi

Mr Ait El Mahdi Lahoucine
This designer is a master of mixing textures and colours. Ait El Mahdi puts freedom in the heart of his creations by combining ethnic and eclectic. As a teacher of fashion Lasalle College Casablanca and Rabat, Lahoucine passes his expertise of years, passionately, to his students including many famous names on the fashion scene of today's Morocco. Nicknamed the "philosopher of couture" for his avant-garde ideas:

Annual Kaftan Show in Morocco
Femmes du Maroc (Women of Morocco) is a monthly Moroccan women's magazine that hosts annual kaftan show. On 25 November 2013, the organisers had unveiled their selection of designated stylists who paid tribute to "Women of legends" in this 17th edition.

In total, there were 16 designers including a young talent, Fouzia Naciri, who competed in creativity to present Moroccan high fashion while being inspired by the extraordinary women who have shaped our history: Nefertiti, Umm Kulthum, Marilyn Monroe, Marie Antoinette, Coco Channel and Frida Kahlo.




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